Saturday, November 6, 2021

Linz

 If Krems was my favorite stop, Linz would be my least favorite. Two years ago on a van from Salzburg to Cesky Krumlov, we were mired in a traffic jam in Linz's smelly industrial section for an hour. Also when we signed up for this cruise two years ago, a trip to Cesky Krumlov was included but now it was reduced to a bus and walking tour of the city. And then it is the city of Hitler  who grew up there and wanted to restore it as the  cultural center of his Aryan empire.  He planned to build this enormous art museum hosing the world's greatest art which the nazis had stolen from various cultural centers they had sacked.  Also the center of music with his favorite composer Anton Bruckner.  The Bruckner hall was next to where our boat was docked but no mention of its Hitler connection. When Hitler announced the Anschuss or the annexation of Austria, he announced it in Linz, not the capital Vienna. The news was eagerly received by admiring throngs.  This area of Austria (upper Austria) still contains many like minded people who co-incidently are less likely to be vaccinated than let's say Vienna. As of now, two weeks since we have been back, Europe is surging again in Covid. When Austria and Germany get together, bad things happen so they were forbidden to have armies or any alliances with each other. Yet they both are members of the EU...

We started off with a tram ride of the boring side of the river where our guide lives. Apparently it's an affordable place. Then on to the Altstadt.

Their cathedral. To pay for the new roof, corporate sponsors get to put their flashing billboards on it (need to enlarge to see)on it. Everyone in Austria and Germany pays a 10% church tax unless they are not Christian. So for every thousand you pay in other taxes, another hundred goes to a church fund. In a small town, you can't afford to be an atheist as no one will hire you. Also hard to see, two metal poles spraying a mist which on sunny days (this was a cloudy day)forms a rainbow. Trying to be more more inclusive? (Unlike Hungary who is making homosexuality akin to pornography)
Very medieval Lacks the baroque touches of other churches. Largest church in Austria
Linz, as it is and was an industrial center, was heavily bombed duringWW2. The church was spared but nearby concussion bombing shattered the windows so new windows with a science theme were installed.
fancy bakery
Linzer torte which is raspberry jam on a nutty crust. I thought Viking would serve us some but they gave us tiny Linzeraugen (linzer eyes)as a snack. Best snack, a nut meringue on top of a nutty crust.
Puzzling statue. My German translates this as the famous Kennedy quote "ask not what can you do for your country..." but why on a headless nude.

Other famous Kennedy quote Ich bin ein Berliner which is he is a jelly doughnut. He needed to drop the 'ein' to express solidarity

they are very proud of their breads
hidden bridge. Was a gate to the old city. Now gets you into a parking lot
city street
ornamental cabbages, their go to fall flower
Plague statue Also market day
After lunch, I decided to run outside the city on their river bike paths. Deadended on both ends so some back and forth was required to get a full run
some art along the river. They put up walls so graffiti artists will use these rather than historical buildings
more art. Also ran  on the Walk of Fem, starts inscribed with famous Austrian women. Didn't recognize anyone
Their art museum near our boat
same museum lit up at night
 

2 comments:

Elephant's Child said...

Despite it being your least favourite stop on the trip, there was still lots to see. And ponder.

Sue in Italia/In the Land Of Cancer said...

I still enjoyed myself and was happy I had time for a run. Steve meanwhile walked across the bridges to see what he could see

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